Here's a few Restoration, and handy Tips, collated from our experience and various sources over the years.

1. For cleaning engines use white spirit, it's much cheaper than commercial 'de-greasers' and very effective.

2. For removing broken or seized bolts/screws from Headset, Horncasting or seperating disc brake halves, leave to soak in desiel for a few days, the fact that it is very thin allows it to penetrate superbly.

3. When applying side panel beading, heat the rubbers as you go with a decorators heatgun (set on low!) it will mould perfectly around the curves and stays in the same 'form' when it cools down. All other rubbers should be placed in boiling water before fitting, it makes the job alot easier..  

Which paint to choose?
In a conventional modern paint finish there are three layers: Primer, Basecoat (colour), Clearcoat. Remember modern clearcoat is not a lacquer. The benefits of a 2-pack application over old fashioned cellulouse are:- Retains the ‘glossy’ look for much longer, much more chip and scratch resistent, easier to apply, shorter curing times, and lastly it doesn’t require limitless coats of ‘laquer’ and hours of elbow grease for that ‘deep glow’ look.

Solid colour.
In a modern 2-pack non metallic sprayjob (eg a white car) you have primer, then white basecoat which dries to a gloss finish and doesn’t require a clearcoat.

Metallic.
In a metallic sprayjob you have primer, basecoat which dries to a dull finish,(and doesn't require an activator/hardner) then a clearcoat on top. The basecoat is a mix of colour pigment and very fine metal particles. A metallic paint job is the ‘basic’ version of the various reflective coatings.

Pearlescent Metallic.
The application of this is the same as a metallic, ie primer, basecoat & clearcoat. The difference is a product called ’mica’ is added to the colour and metallic particles (basecoat). Mica is a colourless product that reflects light in various colour spectrums.Another way to apply pearl is to add the mica to a tinted ‘clear’ and lay this between the base & clear coats. Depending on the shade of the base and the choice of tinting colour, many different results can be achieved. Generally speaking light bases and dark tints work best. 

Candy.
This is another 4-stage application. Primer, basecoat, candy & clear. Candy is a bit like stained glass in that it is coloured although you can still see through it. When layed on top of a basecoat the colour produced is a mix of the two, for example candy blue over silver gives a blue colour with silver glow coming through on the other hand if you apply candy blue over gold you will have a greenish yellow effect. Remember the more coats of candy you apply the darker the overall colour will be. The permutations of a candy finish are as limitless as your imagination (and your wallet!)

Metalflake.
Made famous in the 70’s & 80’s this is the most ‘in yer face’ type of finish. Metal flake is mixed with clear and applied between the base and clear coats.The product is made from varying sizes of aluminium flakes which comes in various colours. Metal flake can be applied over virtually any basecoat and when a candy is layed over ‘flake’ the effect can be stunning! Quite a few layers of clear will be needed as the flakes leave a rough surface when applied.

 We are now able to offer the full range of Innocenti paints in 2-pk finishes matched to the original Lechler colour codes. Primers, 50/50 Base coats, 2-pk Laquers and 2-pk 'solid' colours all at very competitive prices. 

 we would like to thank the people who have allowed us to use their drawings and/or tips in some of the contents shown here, these people are credited where applicable.